diskokongen Posted February 22 Posted February 22 Hei Vet det finnes mange tråder om dette, men maaaaange er utdatert og utilgjengelige Noen med peil som kan gi en enkel beskrivelse, trenger nok egentlig å først komme back to basic innstilling. Virker som den får for lite når motor belastes mye, da gir den seg. Quote
SveinHa Posted February 22 Posted February 22 Jeg har hatt noen tilfeller av lite kraft og det har vært pga. restriksjoner i dieselkretsen utenfor pumpen. Ene gangen var silen i banjonippelen på returslangen fra dieselpumpen tett (hvorfor i alle dager er der en sil i RETURnippelen?) så den ble fjernet. Andre gangen var der litt sand i bunnen av tanken som ble sugd opp i stigerøret og satte seg fast i 90 graders bendet i toppen av tanken. Tror jeg ville sjekket litt slike ting før pumpejustering med mindre du har gjort noe med pumpen som trenger å reverseres da... Quote
lafterolf Posted February 22 Posted February 22 Høres mer ut som for lite turbotrykk. Wastegateventilen åpner på ca 1900 omdr. Korter du inn staget vil du oppnå høyere ladetrykk på høyere turtall. Desverre er tilgangen til staget håpløst plassert bak manifolden. Jeg har løsnet eksosmanifolden og trekt den unna for å justere, de med små hender kan muligens klare å justere, men man må nok vite hvor man justerer fordi de må gjøres i blinde. Løsner du øverste lokk på pumpen kan du sjekke om membranen er hel før du justerer turbo. Bytt dieselfilter aller først lm det ikke er gjort hver høst. Du nevner ikke hvilken bil det er. Noen har sedimentfilter på innsiden av ramma på høyre side rett foran bakaksel. Den må tømmes av og til. Løsnes med 11mm nøkkel på toppen av koppen, tøm og rens. Quote
diskokongen Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 Takk for svar, det er en disco 1 95 modell Sjekker litt filter først, enig i at å ha filter på retur er håpløst. sitter det på enden av returslange i så fall? Har ikke justert noe på pumpe, da det ikke er lenge siden jeg kjøpte bilen, men ser det ryker ved lave turtall. Derfor mistanke om at den er justert på, og greit å ha en grunn innstilling så en vet slik ca hva en driver med. Monterer turbotrykk inst. nå, for å følge med litt på hva som skjer. skal det være ca 1 kg org trykk? Quote
SveinHa Posted February 22 Posted February 22 diskokongen skrev (44 minutter siden): enig i at å ha filter på retur er håpløst. sitter det på enden av returslange i så fall? Det sitter i bolten i banjonippelen der returslangen er tilkoblet innsprøytningspumpen, i alle fall på min. Quote
Atle G Posted February 22 Posted February 22 (edited) Denne instruksen har jeg hatt stor nytte av ... How To Increase The Performance Of Your 200/300tdi So, you want to know how to get more power out of your 300Tdi? These engines are fitted with the Bosch VE type fuel pumps. Below is what I have done. The extra intercooler has added a little more resistance to the air flow, which means that you get your 1 bar at the turbo outlet, but you don’t get 1 bar at the inlet valves. To get over this, drill and tap a hole in the inlet manifold (plenum chamber) and screw in a hose fitting. Get a bit of tube and push it over this fitting and lead it down to your waste-gate actuator and plug it into that and blank off the hose you had to pull off, that leads back to the turbo outlet. Thus, the waste-gate will now only get 1 bar when you get 1 bar at the inlet valves, and then it will start opening. I plumbed a “T” into the above fitting and led a hose to an accurate pressure gauge mounted on the dash, so I can monitor the turbo boost. This allows you to see how well your turbo is working. You can shorten the waste-gate actuator rod and increase the boost. You may need to remove the actuator and cut a bit off the end of the rod to allow sufficient adjustment in the sleeve portion (don’t take too much off at once as better do it in 3mm increments!). What you will find is the rod is too long to get more boost, as too much of it screws into the sleeve and bottoms out. You will have to shorten it quite a way to get more than 1 bar boost. In doing this you will find that you are having to pull the rod against the actuator spring to get it back onto the waste-gate, this is quite fiddly so use locking pliers and mind your fingers! Ensure you put the circlip back on. This means that the actuator spring is now holding the waste-gate shut and means that more boost is required to overcome the spring before the waste-gate is opened. It won’t fully open now either, so boost pressure is held at a constantly higher pressure for longer. Now you have got all that extra nice air, you need the fuel to go with it to get the extra performance. Here’s how to do that: All Adjustments can be made without removing the pump from the engine. Low manifold pressure (boost) fuel delivery adjustment. Smoke Adjustment Screw This adjustment is simple and will help considerably around town at low engine speeds and low boost conditions. There is a small cap in the center of the automatic fuel-control device (AFC) on top of the pump (the appendage that is plumbed to the intake manifold and restricts the amount of fuel injected until the manifold pressure is above atmospheric). This cap can be readily removed with two small screwdrivers and a gentle rocking motion. Beneath the cap is a torx T-25 screw and a lock nut that holds it. Turn the T-25 screw 2 turns clockwise and tighten the locknut to 125 in-lbs. For additional fuel (and smoke) the screw may be turned farther (CW). Back it off (CCW) to reduce smoke. NOTE: this will increase the exhaust gas temperature (EGT) by about 75 degrees F on long hills. Clean the plug with Brake Cleaner and then seal it with LocTite pipe thread sealant with Teflon. Externally, it will appear original. Automatic Fuel Control Star Wheel Adjustment Remove the cap fitted with the 4 straight head screws. Under the AFC diaphragm and spring is a star wheel adjustment which sets the spring tension on the FUEL DELIVERY RATE PIN diaphragm. If your star wheel (under the AFC spring) is set too high, the delivery rate pin won’t move downward as it should with increasing boost levels. Turning the star wheel up (counterclockwise) increases the spring pressure and slows the delivery rate. Turning the star wheel down (clockwise) in ¼ turn increments until you smoke, then back off (counterclockwise) until the smoke has gone to your satisfaction, or until just smokes under power (a black haze, not a black soot cloud) is ok. The retaining lock spring doesn’t have to be removed, the star wheel will rotate with a small screwdriver gently placed and pried between the wheel and it. CAUTION: Note the original location of the wheel, mark it, and count any turns for reference. Remember: Star wheel down = less spring resistance = increased fuel delivery rate Full Power Adjustment On the rear of the pump, partially concealed by the fuel lines, and under a plastic anti-tamper cap is another adjustment screw. Remove the plastic cap and the metal collar tack-welded to the screw, loosen the jam-nut, and turn the power adjustment screw clockwise about 11/2 to 2 turns. After turning the Full Power Adjustment, you may need to re-adjust the Smoke Adjustment Screw to reduce low speed smoke, and the idle screw or throttle linkage to correct the idle speed. To remove the metal collar, it is best to use a Dremmel type grinder, or very carefully using an electric drill and 2mm or smaller drill bit, drill a series of holes along the collar and then gently chisel it off with a very sharp cold chisel. The collar appears to be made of a hardened steel, so a very sharp drill bit is required. Idle Adjustment: Once you have done the above, you will probably need to reset the idle speed adjustment. Loosen the lock nut and then unscrew (reduce revs) or screw in (increases revs) the idle stop until you get 750 to 800 RPM, then tighten the lock nut and recheck you haven’t moved the setting. Putt a dab of white paint (Tippex correcting fluid is good) on the crank pulley (with the engine stationary!). Connect a standard timing light (according to manufacturer’s instructions) to a petrol engine car fitted with a rev counter and parked close enough for the timing light to reach into the engine bay of your vehicle. Start both engines and if the petrol engine is held at the revs you want the Diesel engine set to, the correct revs on the diesel engine are reached when your painted mark is stationary. Additional Notes: If your smoke is only at full throttle load - back off the full load screw. If your smoke is at low end through pull-up to full power - back down the delivery rate. If smoke is heavy at immediate start-up - fine adjust the smoke set screw. In order to increase the horsepower, one must carefully make two adjustments: one is in the smoke-limiter and will be adjusted to allow greater fuel with low manifold pressure (initially, this is adjusted to minimize black smoke at low rpm/low manifold pressure conditions... but, we cannot build exhaust manifold pressure without fuel!). You must remove the circular seal-plug from the center of the AFC device. This reveals the first adjustment. This adjustment will markedly affect the feel of the cars pull-a-way power, making it pull from a stop more strongly. Adjust this in ¼-turn increments until you like the feel and record the adjustment so you can return it to normal in preparation for a smoke opacity test for the MOT. The second adjustment is where the real gain comes from... There is a concealed adjustment on the back side of the pump... essentially behind the fuel lines. [see the power adjustment screw on diagram 2 above] You must uncover the adjustment screw and turn it 135-degrees clockwise. You may have to reduce idle speed back to 750 rpm after this adjustment. Edited February 22 by Atle G skrivefeil Quote
diskokongen Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 Denne var en god forklaring Atle, takker. Den fusker ved 3000 varv, og vil liksom ikke mere da. Kan jo sikkert være spå mangt, får feilsøke litt mere Quote
Mr. Croft Posted February 23 Posted February 23 (edited) On 2/22/2026 at 11:51 AM, Atle G said: Denne instruksen har jeg hatt stor nytte av ... How To Increase The Performance Of Your 200/300tdi So, you want to know how to get more power out of your 300Tdi? These engines are fitted with the Bosch VE type fuel pumps. Below is what I have done. The extra intercooler has added a little more resistance to the air flow, which means that you get your 1 bar at the turbo outlet, but you don’t get 1 bar at the inlet valves. To get over this, drill and tap a hole in the inlet manifold (plenum chamber) and screw in a hose fitting. Get a bit of tube and push it over this fitting and lead it down to your waste-gate actuator and plug it into that and blank off the hose you had to pull off, that leads back to the turbo outlet. Thus, the waste-gate will now only get 1 bar when you get 1 bar at the inlet valves, and then it will start opening. I plumbed a “T” into the above fitting and led a hose to an accurate pressure gauge mounted on the dash, so I can monitor the turbo boost. This allows you to see how well your turbo is working. You can shorten the waste-gate actuator rod and increase the boost. You may need to remove the actuator and cut a bit off the end of the rod to allow sufficient adjustment in the sleeve portion (don’t take too much off at once as better do it in 3mm increments!). What you will find is the rod is too long to get more boost, as too much of it screws into the sleeve and bottoms out. You will have to shorten it quite a way to get more than 1 bar boost. In doing this you will find that you are having to pull the rod against the actuator spring to get it back onto the waste-gate, this is quite fiddly so use locking pliers and mind your fingers! Ensure you put the circlip back on. This means that the actuator spring is now holding the waste-gate shut and means that more boost is required to overcome the spring before the waste-gate is opened. It won’t fully open now either, so boost pressure is held at a constantly higher pressure for longer. Now you have got all that extra nice air, you need the fuel to go with it to get the extra performance. Here’s how to do that: All Adjustments can be made without removing the pump from the engine. Low manifold pressure (boost) fuel delivery adjustment. Smoke Adjustment Screw This adjustment is simple and will help considerably around town at low engine speeds and low boost conditions. There is a small cap in the center of the automatic fuel-control device (AFC) on top of the pump (the appendage that is plumbed to the intake manifold and restricts the amount of fuel injected until the manifold pressure is above atmospheric). This cap can be readily removed with two small screwdrivers and a gentle rocking motion. Beneath the cap is a torx T-25 screw and a lock nut that holds it. Turn the T-25 screw 2 turns clockwise and tighten the locknut to 125 in-lbs. For additional fuel (and smoke) the screw may be turned farther (CW). Back it off (CCW) to reduce smoke. NOTE: this will increase the exhaust gas temperature (EGT) by about 75 degrees F on long hills. Clean the plug with Brake Cleaner and then seal it with LocTite pipe thread sealant with Teflon. Externally, it will appear original. Automatic Fuel Control Star Wheel Adjustment Remove the cap fitted with the 4 straight head screws. Under the AFC diaphragm and spring is a star wheel adjustment which sets the spring tension on the FUEL DELIVERY RATE PIN diaphragm. If your star wheel (under the AFC spring) is set too high, the delivery rate pin won’t move downward as it should with increasing boost levels. Turning the star wheel up (counterclockwise) increases the spring pressure and slows the delivery rate. Turning the star wheel down (clockwise) in ¼ turn increments until you smoke, then back off (counterclockwise) until the smoke has gone to your satisfaction, or until just smokes under power (a black haze, not a black soot cloud) is ok. The retaining lock spring doesn’t have to be removed, the star wheel will rotate with a small screwdriver gently placed and pried between the wheel and it. CAUTION: Note the original location of the wheel, mark it, and count any turns for reference. Remember: Star wheel down = less spring resistance = increased fuel delivery rate Full Power Adjustment On the rear of the pump, partially concealed by the fuel lines, and under a plastic anti-tamper cap is another adjustment screw. Remove the plastic cap and the metal collar tack-welded to the screw, loosen the jam-nut, and turn the power adjustment screw clockwise about 11/2 to 2 turns. After turning the Full Power Adjustment, you may need to re-adjust the Smoke Adjustment Screw to reduce low speed smoke, and the idle screw or throttle linkage to correct the idle speed. To remove the metal collar, it is best to use a Dremmel type grinder, or very carefully using an electric drill and 2mm or smaller drill bit, drill a series of holes along the collar and then gently chisel it off with a very sharp cold chisel. The collar appears to be made of a hardened steel, so a very sharp drill bit is required. Idle Adjustment: Once you have done the above, you will probably need to reset the idle speed adjustment. Loosen the lock nut and then unscrew (reduce revs) or screw in (increases revs) the idle stop until you get 750 to 800 RPM, then tighten the lock nut and recheck you haven’t moved the setting. Putt a dab of white paint (Tippex correcting fluid is good) on the crank pulley (with the engine stationary!). Connect a standard timing light (according to manufacturer’s instructions) to a petrol engine car fitted with a rev counter and parked close enough for the timing light to reach into the engine bay of your vehicle. Start both engines and if the petrol engine is held at the revs you want the Diesel engine set to, the correct revs on the diesel engine are reached when your painted mark is stationary. Additional Notes: If your smoke is only at full throttle load - back off the full load screw. If your smoke is at low end through pull-up to full power - back down the delivery rate. If smoke is heavy at immediate start-up - fine adjust the smoke set screw. In order to increase the horsepower, one must carefully make two adjustments: one is in the smoke-limiter and will be adjusted to allow greater fuel with low manifold pressure (initially, this is adjusted to minimize black smoke at low rpm/low manifold pressure conditions... but, we cannot build exhaust manifold pressure without fuel!). You must remove the circular seal-plug from the center of the AFC device. This reveals the first adjustment. This adjustment will markedly affect the feel of the cars pull-a-way power, making it pull from a stop more strongly. Adjust this in ¼-turn increments until you like the feel and record the adjustment so you can return it to normal in preparation for a smoke opacity test for the MOT. The second adjustment is where the real gain comes from... There is a concealed adjustment on the back side of the pump... essentially behind the fuel lines. [see the power adjustment screw on diagram 2 above] You must uncover the adjustment screw and turn it 135-degrees clockwise. You may have to reduce idle speed back to 750 rpm after this adjustment. Noen som har testet punkt 1 her? @Atle G? (bore og gjenge et hull i innsugsmanifolden. Fest en slange på denne koblingen til wastegate. Plomberere slangen som orginalt gikk til turboens utløp.) Edited February 23 by Mr. Croft Quote
SveinHa Posted February 23 Posted February 23 Mr. Croft skrev (1 time siden): Noen som har testet punkt 1 her? Jeg har turbotrykksmåler koblet til med T den slangen går inn på pumpen og den stopper rundt 1 bar eller bittelitt over. Tror nok de andre punktene er viktigere. Jeg gjorde noe lignende justering etter en annen og mindre detaljert oppskrift og synes jeg fikk betydelig mer futt i motoren. Nå justerer jeg kun med boost-pin (for å redusere røyk ved PKK). Boost pin går gjennom gummimembranen under dekselet på toppen av pumpen. Ved å dreie den 0-180 grader går du fra min til max boost og fortsetter du så går den ned til 0 igjen. Nedre enden er asymmetrisk slik at posisjonen varierer hvor mye diesel du max skal få i forhold til turbotrykket. Min er pr i dag justert på ca 90 grader og det gir helt i grenseland med røyk på PKK. Denne justeringen er bare en del av det hele som er beskrevet og jeg har justert på de andre tingene oppe i lokket der men kan ikke si noe om hvor de står i forhold til originalt. Quote
Atle G Posted February 23 Posted February 23 Mr. Croft skrev (3 timer siden): Noen som har testet punkt 1 her? @Atle G? (bore og gjenge et hull i innsugsmanifolden. Fest en slange på denne koblingen til wastegate. Plomberere slangen som orginalt gikk til turboens utløp.) Jepp - har "alltid" gjort det. Da forholder du deg til virkelig ladetrykk inn i motoren etter Intercooler. Det er ikke den helt store forbedringen men enkel og billig oppgradering. Teorien er at ladetrykket faller over intercooler når temperaturen går ned (pluss litt motstand) noe som får turboen til å lade litt høyere trykk. Ladetrykk måler monteres samme sted. Trodde at alle gjorde denne oppgraderingen 😉 . SveinHa skrev (1 time siden): Jeg har turbotrykksmåler koblet til med T den slangen går inn på pumpen og den stopper rundt 1 bar eller bittelitt over. Tror nok de andre punktene er viktigere. Jeg gjorde noe lignende justering etter en annen og mindre detaljert oppskrift og synes jeg fikk betydelig mer futt i motoren. Nå justerer jeg kun med boost-pin (for å redusere røyk ved PKK). Boost pin går gjennom gummimembranen under dekselet på toppen av pumpen. Ved å dreie den 0-180 grader går du fra min til max boost og fortsetter du så går den ned til 0 igjen. Nedre enden er asymmetrisk slik at posisjonen varierer hvor mye diesel du max skal få i forhold til turbotrykket. Min er pr i dag justert på ca 90 grader og det gir helt i grenseland med røyk på PKK. Denne justeringen er bare en del av det hele som er beskrevet og jeg har justert på de andre tingene oppe i lokket der men kan ikke si noe om hvor de står i forhold til originalt. Boost pin og Boost ring fra Fourby er også rimelige oppgraderinger - riktig justert så er dette helt topp (men lett å justere seg bort). EGT måler + boost måler + speil for å se om der kommer for mye røyk er det som skal til for å justere inn skikkelig. Blir fort en del prøve og feile - men mye å hente. Ikke skru for mye om gangen.... https://fourby.co.uk/epages/950004277.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950004277/Products/TUNING Quote
Mr. Croft Posted February 24 Posted February 24 EGT og ladetrykk måler har jeg (sistnevnte nå koblet til via et t stykke på turbo). Boost pin og ring har jeg og men er for tiden ikke i. Justerte bilen kraftig ned i forbindelse med siste EU. Har vel justert litt opp igjen men da med orginal boost pinne. Jeg har nå en diselpumpe som jeg undrer på om egentlig er for 200TDI, trodde de var like men funnet ut at det er litt forskjeller. Mange gode tips i den beskrivelsen @Atle G postet. Skal nokk teste ut flere av disse. Jeg sliter med at jeg får for høye verdier på CO2 selv om jeg har justert boost pin ned. Tror Turbo er fin og finner ingen hul eller steder der luft stikker av. Neste oppgradering blir da å trekke slange til insugmanifolden. Spent på hva slags avlesning jeg får på trykket der. Jeg har stoor intercooler ifra Allisport kanskje jeg da og bare "må ha" VNT turbo. Slange til insugmanifold er uannsett en såpas enkel jobb at jeg til og med antagelig gjør det nå selv om det er vinter og jeg må stå ute 🙂 Quote
Atle G Posted February 24 Posted February 24 Skifte til 2.8 spisser på dysene er også noe som gir litt ekstra - har et sett nye liggende på hyllen som jeg ikke får bruk for 😉 Quote
lafterolf Posted February 24 Posted February 24 Du har ikke pumpe fra 200tdi, for den vil ikke passe. 200 tdi har større drivhjul og vil derfor ikke gi diesel på rett sted. Til EU-kontroll kan du bruke litt parafin i dieselen, eller justere ned mengdeskruen bak på pumpa, siden det er fort gjort. Quote
Atle G Posted February 24 Posted February 24 lafterolf skrev (1 time siden): Du har ikke pumpe fra 200tdi, for den vil ikke passe. 200 tdi har større drivhjul og vil derfor ikke gi diesel på rett sted. Til EU-kontroll kan du bruke litt parafin i dieselen, eller justere ned mengdeskruen bak på pumpa, siden det er fort gjort. HVO100 syntetisk biodiesel er også et godt alternativ for spesielle anledninger 😉 . Quote
SveinHa Posted February 24 Posted February 24 Ser den finnes både med og uten veiavgifter men hvor få tak i HVO100? Har lett litt på nett og finner bare bulklevering... Quote
Mr. Croft Posted February 24 Posted February 24 1 minute ago, SveinHa said: Ser den finnes både med og uten veiavgifter men hvor få tak i HVO100? Har lett litt på nett og finner bare bulklevering... DRIV har det iallefall på stasjonen der jeg bor. Fylte tanken der etter at jeg fikk underkjent PKK sist, justerte litt ned på pumpa og så gikk bil igjennom. Fortsatt høyere verdier en forrige PKK så jeg leter etter om det kan være en annen feil et sted. Skal sjekke ditt tips på om det kan være en tett sil på retur også men ikke kommet så langt. Quote
SveinHa Posted February 24 Posted February 24 Fant en stasjon et par mil unna... https://drivenergi.no/bedrift/finn-naermeste-stasjon/ Quote
Atle G Posted February 24 Posted February 24 Søkte her: https://www.circlek.no/station-search og fant flere Circle K stasjoner som selger HVO100 Quote
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