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Found 9 results

  1. På Facebook-gruppen Discovery 3 & 4 Owners Group har de liggende en "sticky" post helt øverst som er en liste over sjekkpunkter man bør være klar over/se etter om man er på kjøpern etter en brukt D3 (det meste gjelder også for D4). Det er flere tilsvarende tråder inne i vårt forum, men de er litt "her og der", og siden vi ikke har mulighet til sticky posts så kan det selvsagt være at denne her også etterhvert forsvinner utover i periferien... Men jeg tag'er den med noen relevante tags så jeg håper både innhold og tags gjør at den er lett søkbar for de som har tenkt å handle VBB :-) Listen er dynamisk, altså den får stadig noe påfyll, så sving gjerne innom den opprinnelige posten på Facebook fra tid til annen: https://www.facebook.com/groups/207921512745848/permalink/458114221059908/ Men her er listen, på engelsk, per 27. mai 2016: What to look for when buying a D3, and what are the common faults / things to consider. Here are the most common: HSE is the 'top' model with most options fitted as standard. Other models are capable, and should not be ignored - you might not need or want all the toys, and paying a premium for them might be a waste. Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3's with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines. Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital - these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good 'tell tale' for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign. These are heavy vehicles - suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings - you want Timken / OEM - nothing else will do. Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear. The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned. The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version. Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message "special programs not available" appearing temporarily after starting up. Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts. Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened. Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you'll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil. Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying - it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row? The electronic parking brake can fail, and it's expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin. A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it's worth asking for experiences of members of this group. an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn't offer as many features. A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a 'fuel burning heater' and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater. There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) - if you don't have a strange looking 'loop' arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover. The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off - replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it! Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix. The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle - awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening. Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing - an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life. There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings. The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly. The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging. The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age. There are usually one or two D3's for sale by members of this group. They won't be the cheapest available, but they are likely to be amongst the most 'honest' with declared issues. Road tax is cheaper on older D3's - that said, don't let this put you off newer models - the difference isn't large enough to use it as a buying decision. Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not 'green' vehicles - and that's not why you're buying it! Don't let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you're doing if you want to minimise the costs - rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief. :-) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail - most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive. The fuel injectors can't be serviced, and they're roughly £200 each just for the part - keep in mind you have 6 of them! It's worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape. The glow plugs can fail - symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting. The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour. The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement. The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don't wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up. Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar. Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant. Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix. Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger. The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world! Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem. It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware. Older D3's, without the 4x4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee. Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover's Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered. The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121. Please don't ask about adding two stroke oil to the fuel, terra clean or similar. The short version is that there is no consensus on whether these are good / bad / indifferent, and threads on these subjects usually turn into eulogies and bun fights in equal measure :-)Do your own research, and make your own judgement call on these subjects. It's OK if you want to use your D3 to tow a horse box, cross fields, mountains or rivers, and get it caked in mud, and equally OK if you want it to be showroom perfect, waxed up, and as adventurous as it gets is going to Tesco. Fit whatever wheels you like to it, and upgrade it to D4 styling if you wish. Everyone welcome here. We won't judge you, but we might offer opinions :-) The navigation disc is in a drive under the passenger seat, behind a cover. It can be updated to newer mapping data, and using eBay or searching via Google is the most cost effective way to get a newer disc. Despite all of the above, almost all of us love our D3's and wouldn't want anything else. Don't have nightmares, do sleep well :-) Lastly, as a lot of people ask on here for LR Indies we've set up a map showing those recommended by members on here... Anyone with a google account can add to this map, please don't add layers, just type in the name or address of the indie you want to add in the search bar, once found click the map marker (which will be green) and click add (then it will turn red to show its been added) @[NjQyMTgzOTU5MjA4MTA3Omh0dHBzXGEvL3d3dy5nb29nbGUuY29tL21hcHMvZC92aWV3ZXI/bWlkPXpHOWlJdFQwVTJZRS5ra3RKa1lsdlxiQ1pJOjo=:https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer…] Standard Disclaimer. This post is provided in good faith to act as informal guidance. It is not a substitute for you doing your own research and due diligence on any purchase that you make, and no responsibility for errors or omissions contained in this list is accepted. You take full responsibility for your actions. Similarly, the supplied list of Land Rover specialists was provided by members of this group, and as such should be considered public domain, and does not represent an endorsement of any kind by me or the admin team of this group. Thanks for your understanding!
  2. Hei alle sammen. Håper noen her har noen gode råd. Jeg har Discovery 3 som har fått problemer med luftfjæringen. Nesten uansett hva jeg prøver kommer jeg ikke til bunns i denne. Feilen oppsto rett etter jeg byttet nedre bærebruer foran og i den forbindelse brukte IIdtool for å tømme belgene helt slik at jeg fikk jekket opp bruene da eg strammet igjen boltene til foringene. Først fikk jeg feilmelding i dahsen som sier suspension fault, normal heigh available osv. IIdtool gir feilmelding: Suspension C1131-92 (AF) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation. Kompressoreren er HELT ny og det har ikke vært noen tegn til nedsatt ytelse i løpet av sommeren. Siden jeg har brukt verktøy i hjulbuen foran har jeg sjekket ventilblokken der, kan ikke se noen feil. Når jeg starter bilen går kompressoren i noen sekunder før den stopper i samme sekund som feilmeldingen kommer. Jeg kan ikke se eller høre noen lekkasjer og har forsøkt å tvangskjøre kompressoren med by pass i R7 (releet) men det hjelper ikke i heletatt. Noen tips ???
  3. Hei! Får opp dette etter at jeg starter bilen, men det forsvinner fort: HDC Fault system - special program not available HDC virker når jeg trykker på knappen. Har lest det kan være batteri, usikker når det ble sist byttet. kan nevne at parkeringssensor virker noen ganger, andre ganger piper den som bare det.. Noen som har peiling?
  4. Herlig !!! Noen som har byttet børster her eller hele dynamoen? Mye jobb?
  5. Heisann Defender venner. Da fruen var ute å kjørte bilen forleden stoppet plutselig viften/kupeviften å fungere. Jeg drar ned spaken, men det er null liv. Skjer ikke noe. Selv når jeg skrur på webastoen kommer det ikke luft. Altså webastoen går på, men det kommer ikke luft inn så det er tydelig at det er en feil. Jeg har sjekket sikringene og de ser ut til å være i orden. Vet ikke om det enten kan være et releet? Eller om det kan være selve vifte spaken? Sist jeg hadde problemer med fjernlysene viste det seg å være selve spaken som måtte byttes da koblingen lå der. Kan det være det samme her? At koblingen som ligger inne når vi skrur på viften ikke fungerer? Takk for all hjelp: )Mvh Kjetil Har en 2004 defender.
  6. Har byttet ABS følere på bilen min, var ikke noe galt med de gamle, men verkstedet måtte ta de ut for å komme til noe annet. Uansett, da gikk de til h... og nye ble kjøpt. Begge sider foran har fått nye, men nå får jeg "open circuit" på den på høyre side. Noen som har fått samme feil i forbindelse med bytte? Har sjekket at ledningen er skikkelig i kontakten i motorrommet.
  7. Hei, tenkte jeg bare skulle dele en "erfaring" vi hadde med vår FL2.2. 2010. Dette hendte ifjor vinter. Det var en kald vinterdag... Vi reiste ut på tur med vår kjære bil, voksne og barn skulle på langtur til storbyen. Etter å ha kjørt et par mil begynte det å lyse i batterilampa på panelet. Lurte på hva det kunne være, så jeg stoppet og sjekket om det kunne være noe med dårlig kontakt til dynamo og lading, men fant ikke noe. Da jeg startet bilen igjen..vips! lampa borte igjen! Vi kjørte videre og feilen dukket opp igjen etter et par mil ++. Denne gangen lot jeg det stå til og lampa fikk lyse i all sin prakt! Men så 10 minutter senere begynte den gule motorlampa å lyse, og denne gangen stoppet jeg bilen igjen. Av og på med svenske-knappen igjen, og vips, lysene borte nok en gang! Prøvde meg igjen på å kjøre videre. Denne gangen gikk det 10 minutter og så samme igjen!! Men nå startet først batterilampa..fem minutter...så motorlampa..fem minutter så begynte visst ALLE mulige lamper på panelet å lyse... Jeg kjørte videre i håp om at jeg skulle rekke et verksted i nærmeste tettsted, men rakk ikke snu meg noe særlig i seteskinnet før alle lysene begynte å fade og bilen begynte å fuske! Døden inntraff for vår kjære FL... (heldigvis bare midlertidig.). Fikk akkurat humpa oss inn på en rasteplass før bilen tok kvelden helt! Jeg kikka under lokket, men motorkyndig som jeg er, (NOT!) (YET! Anyway..) fant jeg selvfølgelig ikke noe som antydet til hva feilen kunne være. Fikk taua bilen med NAF og frakta den til et verksted. Bilen var under garanti hos MOTORPOOL da, så i samarbeid med dem prøvde de finne ut hva det kunne være. Det endte med at deladet batteriet, måtte kortslutte batteriet mot gods og hele elektronikken ble nullstilt! Dermed ingen diagnostikk å lese av, men alle lamper og lys var borte igjen! Enden på hele denne visa, er at FL2'en vår har gått som en feilfri klokke siden da og jeg er fortsatt superfornøyd bruker! Skulle gjerne visst hva feilen egentlig var, men som MOTORPOOL sa.. det var bare en elektronikk-failure.. sånt som bare skjer iblant...
  8. Alarmen i min defender 90 svx 2009 er helt på styr. når jeg låser bilen går det bare noen minutter før alarmen går, så jeg kan ikke låse bilen. dette er svært problematisk da jeg som regel har dyrt utstyr i bilen og jeg bor i nærheten av en større by. så om jeg ikke løser dette blir bilen tilnærmet ubrukelig... noen tips? for håpentlig vis får jeg bilen på versted i morgen...
  9. Hei, Sliter litt med Discoen- av og til vil den rett og slett ikke starte Klikker i startrele, og batt. virker OK. Noen som har forslag? Hilsen Tore
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