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På Facebook-gruppen Discovery 3 & 4 Owners Group har de liggende en "sticky" post helt øverst som er en liste over sjekkpunkter man bør være klar over/se etter om man er på kjøpern etter en brukt D3 (det meste gjelder også for D4). Det er flere tilsvarende tråder inne i vårt forum, men de er litt "her og der", og siden vi ikke har mulighet til sticky posts så kan det selvsagt være at denne her også etterhvert forsvinner utover i periferien... Men jeg tag'er den med noen relevante tags så jeg håper både innhold og tags gjør at den er lett søkbar for de som har tenkt å handle VBB :-) Listen er dynamisk, altså den får stadig noe påfyll, så sving gjerne innom den opprinnelige posten på Facebook fra tid til annen: https://www.facebook.com/groups/207921512745848/permalink/458114221059908/ Men her er listen, på engelsk, per 27. mai 2016: What to look for when buying a D3, and what are the common faults / things to consider. Here are the most common: HSE is the 'top' model with most options fitted as standard. Other models are capable, and should not be ignored - you might not need or want all the toys, and paying a premium for them might be a waste. Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3's with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines. Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital - these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good 'tell tale' for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign. These are heavy vehicles - suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings - you want Timken / OEM - nothing else will do. Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear. The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned. The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version. Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message "special programs not available" appearing temporarily after starting up. Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts. Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened. Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you'll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil. Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying - it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row? The electronic parking brake can fail, and it's expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin. A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it's worth asking for experiences of members of this group. an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn't offer as many features. A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a 'fuel burning heater' and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater. There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) - if you don't have a strange looking 'loop' arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover. The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off - replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it! Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix. The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle - awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening. Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing - an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life. There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings. The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly. The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging. The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age. There are usually one or two D3's for sale by members of this group. They won't be the cheapest available, but they are likely to be amongst the most 'honest' with declared issues. Road tax is cheaper on older D3's - that said, don't let this put you off newer models - the difference isn't large enough to use it as a buying decision. Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not 'green' vehicles - and that's not why you're buying it! Don't let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you're doing if you want to minimise the costs - rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief. :-) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail - most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive. The fuel injectors can't be serviced, and they're roughly £200 each just for the part - keep in mind you have 6 of them! It's worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape. The glow plugs can fail - symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting. The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour. The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement. The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don't wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up. Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar. Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant. Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix. Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger. The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world! Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem. It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware. Older D3's, without the 4x4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee. Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover's Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered. The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121. Please don't ask about adding two stroke oil to the fuel, terra clean or similar. The short version is that there is no consensus on whether these are good / bad / indifferent, and threads on these subjects usually turn into eulogies and bun fights in equal measure :-)Do your own research, and make your own judgement call on these subjects. It's OK if you want to use your D3 to tow a horse box, cross fields, mountains or rivers, and get it caked in mud, and equally OK if you want it to be showroom perfect, waxed up, and as adventurous as it gets is going to Tesco. Fit whatever wheels you like to it, and upgrade it to D4 styling if you wish. Everyone welcome here. We won't judge you, but we might offer opinions :-) The navigation disc is in a drive under the passenger seat, behind a cover. It can be updated to newer mapping data, and using eBay or searching via Google is the most cost effective way to get a newer disc. Despite all of the above, almost all of us love our D3's and wouldn't want anything else. Don't have nightmares, do sleep well :-) Lastly, as a lot of people ask on here for LR Indies we've set up a map showing those recommended by members on here... Anyone with a google account can add to this map, please don't add layers, just type in the name or address of the indie you want to add in the search bar, once found click the map marker (which will be green) and click add (then it will turn red to show its been added) @[NjQyMTgzOTU5MjA4MTA3Omh0dHBzXGEvL3d3dy5nb29nbGUuY29tL21hcHMvZC92aWV3ZXI/bWlkPXpHOWlJdFQwVTJZRS5ra3RKa1lsdlxiQ1pJOjo=:https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer…] Standard Disclaimer. This post is provided in good faith to act as informal guidance. It is not a substitute for you doing your own research and due diligence on any purchase that you make, and no responsibility for errors or omissions contained in this list is accepted. You take full responsibility for your actions. Similarly, the supplied list of Land Rover specialists was provided by members of this group, and as such should be considered public domain, and does not represent an endorsement of any kind by me or the admin team of this group. Thanks for your understanding!

Han lurer på denne. https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=149988100&fbclid=IwAR21uqArFYSfFaSMu8-wZTMglhEEWT_q0PTnVLga8zVx2Q8E8OyQywcLYI0 Er det noen som har noen synspunkter, eller innspill? Er det noe spesielt en bør se etter, eller være obs på? Jeg har filla peiling på D4 Vel, egentlig har jeg vel bare filla peiling... Kandidaten kjører gammel Durango i dag.

Hei, Jeg har lenge hatt lyst på D3 og nå har jeg kommet så langt til å vurdere et kjøp. Hører det er mange som fraråder kjøp pga potensielle problemer, men tror jeg skal ta sjansen likevel. Jeg har funnet to biler av interesse på Finn, en som har kjørt nærmere 300k km og som har fått byttet masse slitedeler og som er 7-seter. https://www.finn.no/124794060 Den andre er kjørt 125k km, og er registrert som varebil men med 7-seter pakken. Har ikke setene heller. https://www.finn.no/124932301 Har dere noen innspill eller tips? Jeg har tidligere skrudd selv på biler, men med små barn har det blitt en del mindre. Har også tilgang til et verksted som en kamerat driver.

Hei! Jeg har nå blitt rimelig godt kjent med en Disco 2 TD5 kjøpt i 2016 (første Land Rover) og skal flytte til Storbritannia i løpet av høsten. Der ønsker jeg å kjøpe en 110 med bensin slik at jeg slipper inn overalt i Europa der gamle dieselbiler ikke får lov å kjøre. Jeg regner med et forbruk på 1,5-2 liter per mil. Jeg kan null niks om serie eller defender, men har funnet noen som tilsynelatende ser greie ut. Er det noen som kan si sin mening om denne? Regner med at litt pruting er mulig: https://www.motors.co.uk/car-45282076/?i=3&m=sp Er det typiske feil på disse modellene som man kan sjekke lett selv? Er det noen som har erfaringer med 3.5 liters motoren? Jeg leste at den opprinnelig kommer fra en Buick fra 60-tallet. Virker litt tøft. Takker for innspill. Thommes

Hei, Jeg er på jakt etter min første defender. Denne skal benyttes som jobbebil (hest/racing) og jeg ser for meg en modell rundt år 2000. Jeg har hørt at disse bilene er ganske ærlige, slik at tilstand reløativt enkelt kan vurderes, men at toppene kan være litt lunefulle, og bør byttes til ny (spansketopp?). er det noen som har litt info rundt dette? Er dette en svakhet på alle slik at toppen ryker før eller siden? Noen som vet hva det koster med ny topp inkl montering? bo

Hei, er ny på forumet og har snoket litt rundt. Kjører i dag en Audi A4 avant med quattro, og har lyst på noe større, mer praktisk og tilhengerfeste. Har sett meg ut en D3 (evt. vente noen år og kjøpe D4) eller Range Rover Sport. Discovery er helt klart mer praktisk med 7 seter og litt romsligere, men fruen vil helst ha en RRS pga utseendet. Det første jeg lurer på er om plassen er grei nok i en RRS med et bakovervendt barnesete og stol for litt større barn i kjøreretningen på hver side, og en unge i midten bak. Tror ikke bagasjerommet skal være noe problem da man alltids kan hive på en takboks. Forstår at RRS er en dicovery 3 med et annet karosseri og mindre plass, dvs at man kan benytte seg av de fleste guidene og kunnskapen som finnes i discovery-delen av forumet. Det som holder meg tilbake er manglende mekkeerfaring og mekkeplass. Vil jeg være i stand til å ta meg av vedlikehold og reparasjoner på bilen uten tilgang på garasje, eller har de fleste med LR-produkt også en garasje å oppbevare den i? Noe av grunnen til at det frister å kjøpe en slik bil er at jeg samtidig vil lære masse om hvordan man skrur på dem og utfører preventivt vedlikehold/fikser eventuelle problemer. Tenker å kjøpe en 2006-2007 modell med ca 100k på telleren. Noen i samme situasjon eller med anbefaling om å heller kjøpe en Skoda Superb? Setter pris på alle innspill. Mvh, Alexander

I løpet av et par tråder her på forumet har jeg nå gått fra å vurdere LC 120, videre til å bestemme meg for Discovery 3, til nå å begynne den mest spennende fasen; nemlig jakten på den riktige bilen. Samt prøvekjøring. Men som en som er livredd for å få en katt i smekken, eller hva det nå heter, så har jeg en tildels sær forespørsel; Er det noen som kunne tenke seg å bistå meg i prøvekjøring av en D3? Jeg har dessverre ikke noe særlig peiling på det mekaniske, så det er vanskelig for meg å se og høre om en bil oppfører seg optimalt. Kona og jeg har tenkt å prøvekjøre en Discovery 3 som står i Drammen mot slutten av kommende uke(ons, tors, eller fredag), og det hadde vært fantastisk å kunne få litt kyndig hjelp! Er det noen i Drammensområdet, med god peiling på Disco 3, som ikke har noe bedre å bedrive tiden med, som kunne tenke seg å bistå? Evt. mot litt betaling? Dette ville jeg i alle fall ha sett som en rimelig god forsikring mot å ikke drite meg fullstendig ut... Beste hilsen, Fred

Hei, kjøpte med Defender i 2011 og ble "solgt" til LR. Nå skal drømmen virkeliggjøres og en Lexus RX 300 2001 (en trofast venn uten feil) skal byttes ut med Disco 3. Har fulgt med på Finn en god stund men det er som flere kommenterer her inne en jungel der ute av ulike utstyrstyper og redd for og kjøpe "feil" bil. Dette er ønske listen men det er ønskeliste og ikke et must. under 100 000 km Helst 7-seter men kan godta 5 Beige skinn (Sært men dette er et must ) Panoramatak Webasto Ekstra som jeg kan fikse selv: Ekstra lys foran, rails/takstativ/ kanskje A-bar ++ Hva synes dere om årsmodell vs Km? Hva bør jeg se etter? 1. Denne ser fin ut og lav km: (men 5-seter) 2. Ser også ok ut, kan gjøres om til pers. bil 3. Denne var ikke pen mye skader og merker overalt. 4. Ikle sett på enda, vanskelig å si noe om utstyrnivå. 5. Denne er fra Autostrada, vil lever som 7-seter for 609.