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Om ibell

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    mad jock

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    Sunny Indre Arna
  • Interests
    Mind your own business.......

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    Sunny Indre Arna.

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225 profilvisninger
  1. ibell

    Blinklys varsellys blinker kun en gang

    If you're using the wrong wattage of bulb, it may be reacting the same way as if the bulb was burnt out...
  2. Take off the diesel feed pipe to the injector pump, point it at a can to catch the spillage. Take off the rocker cover. Turn the engine over until the oil light goes out, then you'll know at least if that works. Watch the rockers to see if you're getting oil, once you can see it, re-connect the fuel pipe and crank it up! Good luck! Iain
  3. ibell

    Verktøy s1 1958 88"

    Well worth buying the Whitworth sockets and spanners sold by the Series One Club http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php?page=ClubShop Better than rounding off bolts with 'almost fitting' tools... Iain
  4. ibell

    Kalibrering av luftfjører P38

    http://www.rswsolutions.com/ If you search around a bit, you'll find a link to a free program that lets you calibrate your sensors. You need a cable, the link to making it is in there as well. Or buy the all-singing, all dancing version of the program, complete with cable. Well worth it...
  5. ibell


    http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/4468-info-eas-troubleshooting-tips.html There are some very smart folks on here, if you can't find an answer, post a full description of the symptoms, someone may be able to help...
  6. ibell


    Hmm. Odd. You'll have been over all the sensor height settings, I assume. Can't think what might be the problem, I'm afraid! Good luck, and let us know if you find a cure!
  7. ibell


    Minim, was the valve block rebuilt with new 'O'-rings? 'Dancing' is a symptom of faulty non-return valves...
  8. ibell


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Gdsc6880c&t=35s That's the easy way to check the pressure switch. Very robust units, rarely go wrong. "bilen fungerer på lufta nu,eneste litt tøv vær gang man starter den så justerer den sæ ujevn på alle hjul.. etter 5-10 min kjøring så er den stabil." Sounds like you need to change the driver pack, https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR3900-supplied-by-britpart-branded-land-rover.html The driver pack converts the low-voltage signals from the EAS ECU to high (12v) signals to the solenoids. If it's taking that long to 'settle'... I just did, and random faults are gone. Just need to change the valve block for a rebuilt one, and should be fault free! Wildrover said: Mulig temp.sensor kan byttes, det har jeg ikke forsket på. (It can, it's under the end plate on the compressor...but...) En midlertidig fix kan være å koble den tynne ledningen til jord. Da tror bilen at kompressoren er kald hele tiden. Wouldn't advise that, you'll burn out your compressor. The new driver pack will fix it, if the pressure switch is working and it's getting the signal out to the driver pack but the compressor is still running, it's the driver pack that's faulty, not the switch or the compressor.
  9. ibell


    Damn! Now she knows! Could you not have kept quiet?
  10. ibell

    Framre bensintank. Liter?

    45 liters, as I recall...
  11. ibell


    Anyone in Stavanger coming to Bergen in the next week or so? Got a parts washer needs bringing from Stavanger :-)
  12. ibell


  13. ibell


    Anyone in the Aksdal area, I'm sitting in the shell station needing the nut that holds the alternator pulley on. And a pulley. Or an alternator that'll fit a V8.....
  14. ibell


    Ah...... Now I know who 'county' is.....I hate nicknames.......
  15. ibell


    Hi Gaute! (and everyone else )All we have at the moment is a rusty but usable chassis, very rusty but usable bulkhead, and bodywork. All of which needs work....plan is to put an S3 engine, S2 gearbox and transfer case, S3 steering and pedal box into it. Probably put S3 brakes on it as well, so I can fit dual-circuit brakes and make it a bit safer......It'll still look like a Series 1, but it'll be easier to drive and maintain. Chassis needs new rear cross-member, bulkhead outriggers, and fuel tank outrigger. All easy. S1 seats and interior. Galvanise the chassis and bulkhead once the welding is done. We'll keep it simple, and true to the spirit, at least, of an old S1, but with more modern brakes and engine. No, I'm not putting in a V8 Anyone have problems with any of this? I've signed Sara up for a forum account, we'll start a new thread in 'projects' soon..... Edited to add.....it's a 1954 model, same as me