Gå til innhold

Hefty

Medlemmer
  • Innlegg

    39
  • Ble med

  • Besøkte siden sist

1 følger

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vestby . 2420 Trysil
  • Interests
    Discovery 4 2012
    Har iidtool BT

Previous Fields

  • Location / Bosted
    Vestby . 2420 Trysil

Nylige profilbesøk

1 311 profilvisninger

Hefty sine prestasjoner

Medlem

Medlem (2/7)

  1. Som jorgenht skrev sjekk kontakt under setet . https://www.lrservice.ru/data/404/LA501-009V2.pdf
  2. Jeg vil mene det er glødepløkker som har et problem. for det at du venter giver lidt ekstra tid på at gløde LR time på youtube har en god video på hvordan det sjekkes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbBscBFpH_s
  3. Ganske sikker på at den er limet inn, Samme som på D3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXrumW_nztg
  4. Fik du nulstillet bilens BMS, når den fik nytt batteri
  5. Har snakket med de og de sa at det måtte være Altox . hmm
  6. Har selv usb voltmeter, jeg har en Defa smart lader som er på i helga når det er kaldt og jeg har fri fra jobb. Når jeg kjører på jobb ser jeg voltmeter kan gå helt ned på 12,3 til jeg bremser eller slipper gassen da tikker den opp på 13,8 ish.. ellers ligg den på 14,6 til 15,0
  7. Hej fik dere kontrol på forbruk .. Fik min første hele fak idag den har brukt 13GB data blir kroner 275 ish ka fersken har den brukt det på noen som vet ??
  8. Har lånt denne på et engelsk forum husker ikke hvem, men de han opplyser her passer på min D4 2012 13.8V is just fine on a D3/4. Anything between 13.2V and 15V really. Depends on state of charge of the battery, ambient temperature, and probably another few undocumented factors. Interestingly but, I had a read of the BMS section of the manual. Once the battery is fully charged the BMS will taper the battery charge down to approximately 75% by lowering the alternator output to no less then 12.2 volts as part of its self calibration routine, it will then maintain between 12.6v to 15v which is what it did/does eller You are correct that AGM batteries are less forgiving when it comes to charging voltage even though they store energy quicker. When they first became mass-market products the manufactures acknowledged that ideally they needed a little more voltage than traditional types (nominally 14.7v rather than 14.4v). As with everything the nominal voltage is just that as temperature (and in extremist pressure altitude) makes quite a difference too. Quite a few smart chargers changed or introduced specific AGM charging strategies. As time has progressed they have become less sensitive to nominal voltage but they do not appreciate the large voltages that could be tolerated by traditional batteries. Given their key strengths they became essential for the world of stop-start and ECM controlled charging strategies have become very clever and totally dynamic. The D4 charging system is very different to the D3 and it also varies over the model years, CCF settings, software loads and BMS. By MY12 you effectively have most of a stop-start system installed, by MY13 it is a reasonably mature but not active stop-start system and by MY14 it is a fully functional stop-start. Along the way you have more and more energy recovery being used to reduce alternator load and therby reduce emissions. The earlier years of D4 had a few issues with the BMS and the programming and some owners were plagued by 'low battery' messages. I presume LR would have gone live with stop-start earlier if things had gone better. As for the car settings the lengthy explanation above gives you an idea that the answer is 'it depends'. The CCF has an entry for the type and capacity of the battery installed so the ECM can adopt the correct stratergy. For example my MY13 D4 with an AGM battery has the following CCF entry at 0x12: Quote: H8HD 90Ah 950 Cold Cranking Ampere On top of this setting you have the BMS revision and ECM version playing their part. The BMS is supposed to be reset when a new battery is installed so it can re-learn the capacity and discharge rate. As for voltages seen when driving I typically get less than 13v. When I take my foot off the gas the energy recovery kicks in and demands more from the alternator giving voltages nearer to 14v. Of course, with the new charging strategy the ECM is not trying to achieve a full charge as the last few % takes a lot of power, so the system keeps the battery a bit below it max capacity. I never get anything like the charging voltages seen on the D3 so this should give the AGM battery an extended life. I still use a Ctek charger to provide conditioning charges each season to keep the battery in tip-top health. Drivesafe will be able to give more of an insight into battery and charging developments in the last 2 years as the pace of change has been remarkable. Hope this helps.
  9. Min var samme på første oppstart
  10. Kan sitt fast som fa.... spray med rust løsner i et par dage og bruk en tang så du ikke ødelegger vrideren
  11. Min lås har også knekt nøkkel så jeg har tatt av vrideren og presset låsen 5 mm utt da er det mulig og ta av og på feste uten låsen . har ikke funnet rette vrider med ny lås enda. da min er Large type . og for og få av vrideren er der et lille hul der du kan skuppe låsepinnen ut med en lille dorn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAScMXlvNA0
  12. Om du bruker samme type treng det ikke gjøres annet inn reset, som må gjennomføres for å fortelle bilen at den har fått nytt batteri.
×
×
  • Opprett ny...