© Text and Photo: Frode H. Haaland
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© Text and Photo: Frode H. Haaland |
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Renewing Fuel Lift PumpDiscovery 200tdi 1990 |
| If the engine is low on oooomph, the fuel lift pump is quite often the culprit. I've been told there's no way you can test the performance of the pump, but as it's priced at around £16 (Paddocks) it is worth a shot if you feel the other items on the list are OK. To me, this was the final try before spending a fortune on new injectors! |
Removing the lift pump |
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| Remove battery negative terminal.
The fuel lift pump runs on the camshaft, and lifts fuel from tank (via sedimenter) into fuelfilter, and into the injection pump. It is situated on the engines right hand side, close to the fuel filter - hidden behind all sorts of fuel lines and wires. Remove the fuel lines from the pump. From factory, the pump has plastic fuellines heatshrinked onto the pumps firm fuellines. These has to be cut of using a knife. Otto had the plastic fuellines renewed, so after undoing the hoseclamps, the lines just slipped off. |
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The new pump and parts in the Bearmach box. It
contains not only the fuelpump and gasket, also bolts, springwashers, a
short length of tubing and a length of rubber fuel line with clamps.
Note the thick polystyrene sandwiched between gaskets. |
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The pump is bolted down to the engine block using
inhex-bolts; a good set of inhex bits on a standard socket set is useful,
as it will enable you to use the torquewrench when refitting.
There's one bolt each side of the pump. |
| Once the bolts are removed, the pump can be withdrawn from the engine. |  |
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This is the old pump - the oil comes from the camshift driving the pump. No signs of a worn out pump - but then: there is usually no sign other than an engine low on ooomph, especially going uphill. |
The new pump getting ready |
| Remove the short lenghts of fuel line, and swap
over to the new one.
One of the fuel lines were thoroughly stuck onto the nut, so I didn't try to move it to point it were it did point on the old pump. No problem, really, because now the fuel lines give a more unobstructed access to both the lift pump and the oilfilter below! |
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The new routing of the fuellines demanded a shorter line on the supply end, so it was cut down a bit. |
| There's a polystyrene
spacer in the Bearmach box; this also appears in the Land Rover parts
catalogue. But the old pump on the vehicle did not have such a spacer!
Measuring the old and new pump in fact did not solve the issue, as the operating arm seemed to be a bit too long without the spacer, and a bit too short with the spacer... So I decided to fit the pump with the spacer! |
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Fitting the new pump |
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As a Land Rover engine, some engine use metric
bolts, and some use imperial threading. Check which bolts are correct -
both being supplied in the Bearmach set.
As can be seen, the 200tdi fuel pump is attached to a plate that's bolted to the engine block. |
| The manual tells you to make sure the operating
lever actually operates on the cam lobe. I couldn't figure out how
to do this, but it might have felt like the lever operating while I pushed
the pump in/onto the engine.
Enter the bolts, and torque down to 25NM, don't forget to tighten up evenly! |
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Attach fuel hoses, bleed fuel system using your
brand new pump, and test run engine to check for leaks - after you
reattach the battery negative terminal!
The hand pump lever must be left in its uppermost position. |
Conclusion |
| Did it help? Was the lift pump the culprit of poor performance? No...and now for some costly new injectors... |
Tools and parts used: |
| Kit fuel lift pump 200tdi STC1190 (at around
£15-£16 at Paddocks; £35 at Rimmer Bros...)
Torquewrench Inhex sockets Hoseclamp-tool 17mm spanner 12mm spanner 13mm spanner (battery negative terminal) |